Caramelized Turnips With Capers, Lemon and Parsley

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THE TURNIPS Turnips are a wonderful and often overlooked root vegetable. Lightly browned or caramelized (this concentrates their sweetness), they are even better. Daikon radish is a perfectly acceptable substitute (Chinese turnip cake is made with daikon, after all), and is easier to peel than a pile of small turnips. The technique works for larger turnips, too, or for rutabagas or kohlrabi.

Caramelized Turnips With Capers, Lemon and Parsley

Time: 20 minutes

3 pounds small turnips or daikon radish

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper

2 small garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and roughly chopped

Zest of 1/2 lemon

3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

Juice of 1/2 lemon, or to taste.

1. Peel turnips, halve lengthwise and slice into half-moons 1/4-inch thick.

2. Heat olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches if needed, add turnips. Sauté, turning often and lowering the heat if necessary, until nicely browned and cooked through, about 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to an oven-proof serving dish. If not serving immediately, leave at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or refrigerate and bring to room temperature, before reheating in a 400-degree oven for 10 minutes. 

4. To serve, mix garlic, capers, lemon zest and parsley; sprinkle over turnips. Drizzle with lemon juice. 

Yield: 8 to 10 servings.

Braised Carrots with Cumin and Red Pepper

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THE CARROTS Use real carrots and peel your own. Which is not to say that those miniature peeled carrots in bags aren’t real, but, convenience aside, they often lack true carrot flavor. Carrots braised with olive oil and garlic, then seasoned with toasted cumin and red pepper, taste good hot or at room temperature.

Braised Carrots with Cumin and Red Pepper

Time: 30 minutes

3 pounds medium carrots, peeled

4 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

6 garlic cloves, sliced

1/2 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and coarsely ground

2 teaspoons mild red pepper flakes, like Aleppo or Marash

2 teaspoons paprika, smoked or unsmoked.

1. Cut the carrots lengthwise, or quarter them if you wish.

2. Warm the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the carrots and turn them in the oil to coat. Season generously with salt. Add the garlic and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cover the pan. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the carrots are just tender.

3. Remove the lid, raise the heat, and let any remaining water cook away.

4. Sprinkle the cumin, red pepper and paprika over the carrots and transfer them to an oven-proof serving dish. Serve hot or at room temperature. The carrots may be left at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or refrigerated and brought to room temperature, before reheating in a 400-degree oven for 10 minutes.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings.

Cauliflower With Curry Butter

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THE CAULIFLOWER Cut it into the tiniest florets possible. This takes a little longer, but the results are worth it. You get something delicate, which is not a word usually associated with this vegetable. Cook the florets briefly, then toss them with a little curry-flavored butter, some chives and a squeeze of lime.

Cauliflower With Curry Butter

Time: 30 minutes

3 pounds cauliflower

Salt

4 tablespoons butter

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon cloves

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger, or 1/2 teaspoon dry ginger

2 tablespoons snipped chives

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste.

1. With a paring knife, cut the cauliflower into tiny florets, as small as possible. You should have about 8 cups.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Working in batches, cook the florets for 1 to 2 minutes, until just cooked but still firm. Drain well and blot on kitchen towels, then cool.

3. Melt the butter in a small saucepan and stir in the turmeric, cayenne, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves and ginger. Put the cooled cauliflower in a large bowl and season lightly with salt. Drizzle the butter over it, toss gently and transfer to an oven-proof serving dish.

4. The cauliflower can be kept at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours until serving time, or covered and refrigerated then brought to room temperature. To serve, heat in a 400-degree oven for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and lime juice.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings.